Rock and roll is here to stay

The sound of Neil Young with Crazy Horse is unlike that of any other band.  There’s a magical meeting of minds when these men get together with their guitars. It’s been 12 years since I last saw them all, as a band, in the charm-challenged hangar that was called the Birmingham NEC.  They blew my mind. The sound!

Three days and plenty of pilsners into a stay in Berlin, finally it was Sunday at the Waldbuhne, out on the western perimeter of the German capital, just near the Olympic Stadium.There are concert venues there concert venues, but this is a special setting: a deep and perfectly carved amphitheatre, surrounded by woods.  Books tell us the venue was dreamed up by the Nazi Joseph Goebbels.

It’s a pale grey evening.  Not that we can see it, but the sun is slowly setting. Our tickets read that the gates open at 18:30.  You’d guess the support (Los Lobos) might be on around 19:30; maybe Neil Young with Crazy Horse around 20:30 or 21:00. Lest we forget, this is Germany.

Two mates and I arrive at 19:00.  Is that Los Lobos we can hear through the trees?  You bet your David Hasselhoffs it is.There’s lengthy applause, cheering and whooping.  It’s their last song!  Some 20,000 are already packed into the venue.  Occasionally, stereotypes live up to reputation in spectacular fashion.  No towels can be seen, but every space is already taken by a man or woman with a Bratwurst and a Berliner pilsner.  Vorsprung my arse.

It’s still grey, but it’s getting brighter as the evening draws in. Weird.

 

I’ve checked my pocket for this evening’s ticket stub about a dozen times already.  Twelve years ago, the NEC stewards took our ticket stubs off us - the whole of our ticket stubs!  I’m still bitter about it.  Why did they do that?  And why did we say ‘Yes’ and just give them up? At the Waldbuhne the stewards are nice, the Bratwurst is excellent and the beer is half the price and twice the quality of most London venues. The choice of food and drinks is like a Christmas market: a sausage selection, cocktails, sausages, beers, sausages, wines, sausages, cheeses, sausages. Jagermeister?  No, tonight’s not the night.

When Shakey steps on stage it’s as bright as it’s been all day.  No words, straight into Ragged Glory’s ‘Love And Only Love’, a mainstay of this – possibly the last – of Neil Young’s international tours with Crazy Horse. The setlists have varied little on this tour.  Depending on your preferences, there’s a smattering of older 60s, 70s and 80s songs to be heard, mostly Crazy Horse collaborations, some Young solo songs.  Something to please almost everyone.

At the Waldbuhne, the two-hour set has 14 songs.  Three songs are from the new Psychedelic Pill album, but they do account for a whopping and some might say overly-noodling 40 minutes of that set. Musically, Neil Young with Crazy Horse are simultaneously as tight and loose and as adventurous as they’ve ever been.  It’s nothing short of a wonder to see these veterans play as one, yet seemingly warring with each other’s phenomenal abilities on the fret boards.  Again, it’s just the sound!

 

 

Neil Young’s recent autobiography sheds fresh light on what we’re hearing and witnessing when we see them live: there’s a blinding focus on living in the music for the freshness and uniqueness of each moment.  It’s a healthy obsession with the right now.

‘Walk Like A Giant’ is a damn good song.  It’s a grower?  The Waldbuhne, they love it!  They yell along like it’s an age-old anthem, passed down through the generations.  It’s a fantastic sound, but it’s not exactly ‘Walk Of Life’, is it.  So it’s all the more eerie when the sing-a-long fades as the song descends into Jurassic jazz power-chords and death-march drums that seem to evoke an obsidian prehistoric apocalypse.

Back in June 2013, there’s still daylight and this is Berlin.  Surely there’s one song that’s as guaranteed for this setlist as the bulge at the back of the net that comes with every German penalty against an English goalie? No, ‘Keep On Rockin’ In The Free World’ doesn’t show up.  Shakey does things his way and trumps such thoughts.  For the first time since 1991, he sings Dylan’s ‘Blowin’ In The Wind’, centre stage, all alone, on the back of a still unfailingly tender ‘Heart Of Gold’.

“Doesn’t it ever get dark here?” asks Neil Young at around 21:30.‘Cinnamon Girl’, ‘Mr Soul’ and ‘Hey, Hey, My, My (Into The Black)’ are highlights in the second half of the set. When ‘Hey, Hey’ starts up, it’s so good you don’t want the beginning to end… please, just keep the beginning going a little longer.  Just until it goes dark.

The encore is ‘Like A Hurricane’.  We’ve been duped.  The whole evening was in fact one extraordinary psycho-jazz-folk jam session of preparation for this aching squall of perfection.  How can anyone make this kind of sound?  Where does it come from? Neil Young with Crazy Horse don’t mature, they’re ageing like a kick-ass tequila.  On stage at least, they’re living up to Young’s prophetic ‘Better to burn out than to fade away’.

When they leave the stage, finally it goes dark.

 

Nigel Watts